303 - Router Table Plan, Prace w drewnie Woodworking, Woodsmith Plans

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ROUTER
TABLE
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co.
 W
eekend
P
roject
r
outer
t
able
With your choice of bases, a rock-solid table, and fence-mounted
accessories, this project is as rewarding to build as it is to use.
A
router is one of the most versa-
tile tools in the shop. Mount it in
a router table, and you’ll find dozens
of new uses for this tool.
base.
The basic open-base router
table shown in the main photo above
is easily built from 2x4s. And you can
complete it in a weekend.
Another option is the enclosed
cabinet base shown in the inset
photo. This cabinet helps reduce
dust and noise from the router. It
also of fers plenty of storage for
accessories and router bits.
table top.
Whichever base you build,
the table top and fence are the same.
The router is screwed to an insert
plate that drops into the table top. This
allows easy access for bit changes.
Fence.
The fence accepts a variety
of accessories, such as bit guards
and a dust hood. You can make
these yourself, or you can purchase
them from
Woodhaven
.
1
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
Construction Details
MATeRIAls
Overall Dimensions:
36" x 23" x 41
7
/
16
" (including fence)
WOOD
*A
LegPieces(8)
1
1
/
2
x3-36
1
1
/
2
x3-18
*B
Rails(4)
L
WASHER
#/8" PLASTIC KNOB
*C
Stretchers(3)
1
1
/
2
x3-20
1
/
2
TOP BAR
I
3
/
4
ply-21
1
/
2
x28
1
/
2
D
Base(1)
BASE TOP
%/16"-I.D.
THREADED
INSERT
E
Covers(2)
1
/
4
hdbd.-21
1
/
2
x28
1
/
2
x 2
THREADED KNOB
%/16"
!/4"
3
/
4
x1
1
/
4
-21
1
/
2
F
SideEdging(2)
G
Fr./Bk.Edging(2)
3
/
4
x1
1
/
4
-30
1
/
4
hdbd.-7
3
/
4
x11
3
/
4
H
InsertPlate(1)
K
J
I
BaseTop(1)
1
1
/
16
x1
3
/
4
-36
SLIDING FACES
G
BASE BOTTOM
3
/
4
x1
3
/
4
-36
J
BaseBottom(1)
FRONT/BACK
EDGING
INSERT
PLATE
H
K
SlidingFaces(2)
3
/
4
x1
3
/
4
-18
O
3
/
4
x2
1
/
2
-36
L
TopBars(2)
SPLINE
M
M
ArmBlank(1)
3
/
4
x1
3
/
4
-8
ARM
N
1
1
/
4
x1
3
/
4
-2
7
/
8
MITER
GAUGE SLOT
N
Spacers(2)
SPACER
E
O
Splines(2)
1
/
8
hdbd.-
7
/
8
x1
3
/
4
D
COVERS
BASE
F
HARDWARE
*(12)
1
/
4
"x3
1
/
4
"lagscrews
*(12)
1
/
4
"washers
*(1)
3
/
4
"x24"hardwooddowel
(8)#8x
7
/
8
"Fhwoodscrews
(2)#8x1
1
/
4
"Fhwoodscrews
(2)#8x1
1
/
2
"Fhwoodscrews
(2)#8x2
1
/
2
"Fhwoodscrews
(2)
3
/
8
"x6"carriagebolts
(2)
3
/
8
"washers
(4)
5
/
16
"washers
(2)
3
/
8
"plasticknobsorwingnuts
(4)
5
/
16
"inside-diameterthreadedinserts
(4)
5
/
16
"x2
1
/
4
"threadedknobs
(4)L-shapedmountingbrackets
(2pcs.)23
1
/
2
"x30
1
/
2
"plasticlaminate
*Indicatesitemsneededonlyforopenbase
LAMINATE
(TOP AND
BOTTOM)
SIDE
EDGING
#/8" x 6"
CARRIAGE
BOLT
MOUNTING
BRACKET
x 3
LAG SCREW
!/4"
!/4"
B
RAILS
A
LEG
PIECE
CUTTING DIAGRAM
!/4" HARDBOARD - 48 x 48
C
STRETCHER
H
#/4" HARDWOOD
DOWEL
E
#/4" PLY - 24 x 48
E
D
2x4 (1
!/2
x 3
!/2
) - 8 Ft. (Four Boards @ 5.3 Bd. Ft. Each)
A
A
B
2x4 (1
!/2
x 3
!/2
) - 6 Ft. (4 Bd. Ft.)
C
C
C
#/4
x 3
!/2
- 72 (1.8 Bd. Ft.)
F
G
#/4
x 5
!/2
- 96 (3.7 Bd. Ft.)
L
L
J
K
K
M
1
#/4
x 3
!/2
- 48 (2.3 Bd. Ft.)
I
N
2
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
1
#/4"
NOTE:
RIP ALL 2x4
STOCK 3" WIDE
Open Table Base
3"
Shop Note: If you prefer to build
the enclosed cabinet base, turn to
page 12.
1!/2"
18"
3!/2"
CUTTING DETAIL
1
Square up the 2x4 stock by ripping
it to a finished width of 3". To do this,
rip
1
/
4
" from each side; see Fig. 1.
21"
36"
LEG PIECES
2
Using the trimmed 2x4s, cut eight
leg pieces (A) to a length of 36".
A
3
Cut four rails (B) from the trimmed
2x4 stock to a finished length of 18".
CUT DADOES
TO FIT RAILS
4
To form mortises to hold the rails,
first cut a 3"-wide dado,
3
/
4
" deep at
the top of each leg piece (A); see Fig.
1. Then cut a second dado 3" wide and
3
/
4
" deep, 21" below the top dado.
3"
#/4"
B
FRONT VIEW
5
Glue a rail (B) into the top dado
of a leg piece (A). Make sure the
end of the rail is flush with the edge
of the leg; see Fig. 1. Glue a second
rail into the lower dado. Then glue
a second leg piece to the first leg
piece to sandwich the rails. Repeat
with the other leg pieces and rails
to form the two end frames.
RAILS
20!/2"
3"
STRETCHERS
C
2
a.
DRILL PILOT HOLE
THROUGH DOWEL
#/16"
#/4" x 3"
HARDWOOD
DOWEL
x 3
LAG SCREW
!/4"
!/4"
6
Then, cut three stretchers (C)
from the trimmed 2x4 stock to a
finished length of 20
1
/
2
"; see Fig. 1.
(Shop Note: To provide access to
the router, there is no top stretcher
between the front legs.)
DOWEL
DRILL
HOLE, 1
FROM
END
#/4"
!/8"
WASHER
RAIL
B
END
FRAME
RAIL
7
The lag screws that fasten the
end frames to the stretchers are
threaded into end grain. To give
these lag screws more hold, a dowel
is inserted into each stretcher close
to the end; see Fig. 2. So first, drill
two
3
/
4
"-dia. holes through the edge
of each stretcher. Center each hole
1
1
/
8
" from the end of the stretcher.
Then glue a
3
/
4
"-dia. dowel into the
hole. When the glue is dry, trim and
sand the dowel flush.
C
DRILL
SHANK
HOLE IN
RAIL
!/4"
!/4"
x 3
LAG
SCREW
!/4"
STRETCHER
DRILL
SHANK HOLES
9
Place a stretcher (C) against a rail.
Drill a
3
/
16
"-dia. pilot hole through
each shank hole into the stretcher and
through the dowel in the stretcher;
see Fig. 2. Repeat this process to drill
pilot holes into all the stretchers.
Tip
If you cut the dadoes on the table saw,
set the blade
3

4
" above the table. For
the top dadoes, set the rip fence 3"
from the outside of the blade. To cut
the dadoes in the middle of the leg
pieces, set the rip fence and make one
cut in each leg piece to define the top
of the dado. Next, reset the fence to cut
the bottom edge of each dado. Then
remove the waste between the cuts.
10
Now complete the base by
fastening the end frames to the
stretchers using
1
/
4
" x 3
1
/
4
" lag screws
and washers; see Fig. 2.
8
Drill two
1
/
4
"-dia. shank holes
through each rail (B) where a stretch-
er (C) will be attached; see Fig. 2.
3
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
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