205 - Clamp Storage, Prace w drewnie Woodworking, Woodsmith Plans
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CLAMP
STORAGE
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co.
S
hop
p
rojeCt
C
lamp
S
torage
Have some scrap plywood and an empty bit of wall space? That’s all
you need to get your clamps organized.
T
here’s an old saying that a wood-
worker can never have too many
clamps. I know that over the
years I’ve collected quite a few. In fact,
finding space to put my ever-growing
collection was becoming an issue.
What I needed was a better way to
store and organize my clamps. And
the new “system” had to be easy to
build and add on to. That way, as I
got more clamps I could make a new
rack for them quickly.
SIMPLE DESIGN.
What I came up with
is a rack that can be made from four
small pieces of plywood and fits just
about anywhere. A series of these
racks can be customized to hold all
types of bar and pipe clamps. And as
you can see in the photos below, I
even made a couple of extra racks to
hold gluing supplies and C-clamps.
One thing all the racks have in
common is that they are designed
to screw to the wall. So you can fit
clamp storage wherever you have an
open bit of wall space.
ROLL-AROUND CADDY
. If you’re short of
wall space, don’t worr y. The racks
can also be attached to a handy roll-
around caddy, as you can see on
page 4. Even if you have plenty of
wall space, you may want to con-
sider building the caddy. It holds
all of your clamps in one place and
makes it easy to roll them to wher-
ever your project may be.
{
A storage box keeps glue and acces-
sories organized. Mounting it near
the clamps makes it handy.
{
C-clamps are held on this simple
rack. It can be custom built to fit
different sizes of clamps.
{
Pistol-grip clamps can be cinched
down on a rack, ready to grab and
be put to work.
1
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
a.
Countersunk
screw hole
Racks
The heart of this clamp storage sys-
tem is an L-shaped rack braced at
each end by a triangular support.
Each rack is the same size. The only
difference is the slots that are custom-
ized for different types of clamps.
All of the pieces are made from
3
⁄
4
" plywood (although hardwood
would work as well). In fact, I built
my racks from pieces of scrap ply-
wood that were too small for projects
but too big to throw out.
To keep things simple, I made each
rack 12
1
/
2
" long. That way they fit in
small bits of wall space as well as on
the optional roll-around caddy. But
they can be made any length you like
to accomodate your clamps.
CUT PIECES.
The first step was to cut
a
top (A), back (B),
and two
sup-
ports (C)
to size for each rack, like
you see in Fig. 1 at right. (I made the
supports by ripping a long 3
1
/
4
"-wide
blank, then making alternating 45°
cuts on the end.)
Before assembling the racks,
I took the time to drill a couple of
countersunk holes in each back piece
(Fig. 1a). These are used to screw the
completed rack to a wall.
SLOT LAYOUT.
The next step is to lay
out the slots for the clamps in each
top piece. The detail drawings in Fig.
1 show racks for the most common
types of clamps. Small bar clamps sit
fairly close together (Fig. 1b). I-beam
clamps need more room between
slots (Fig. 1c). And Fig. 1d shows
the spacing for pipe clamps. Note:
Racks for pistol-grip clamps don’t
need slots. Refer to the lower right
photo on the previous page.
1
BACK
Counter-
sunk screw
hole
1"
B
B
4"
12!/2"
2"
12!/2"
b.
3!/4"
TOP
VIEW
BAR CLAMPS
A
TOP
%/16"-dia.
hole
A
C
SUPPORT
3!/4"
4"
NOTE:
All pieces are
plywood
BAR
CLAMP
RACK
2#/8"
#/4"
3!/4"
SUPPORT
1#/4"
1" 1"
C
c.
d.
#/4" PIPE CLAMPS
I-BEAM CLAMPS
1
!/8"
-dia.
hole
A
A
!/2"-dia. hole
TOP
VIEW
TOP
VIEW
4"
1!/4"
4"
1&/8"
1&/8"
2#/8"
2!/2"
1#/4"
3"
1#/4"
3"
CUT SLOTS.
After the slots are laid
out, you can start cutting them. I
found the best way to do this was to
drill a hole at the top of each slot first,
like you see in Fig. 2.
After the holes are drilled, the
waste can be removed on the table
saw. As Fig. 3 shows, I attached an
auxiliary fence to my miter gauge to
support the workpiece and prevent
the waste piece from kicking back.
ASSEMbLY.
Once the slots are cut,
the rack can be glued up. The top is
clamped to the top edge of the back;
then the supports are added.
With my long clamps taken care
of, I turned my attention to my C-
clamps and accessories.
Materials
B
ar
& P
iPe
C
lamP
r
aCk
A
Top(1)
#/4
ply.
-4x12
!/2
B
Back(1)
#/4
ply.
-3
!/4
x12
!/2
#/4
ply.
-3
!/4
x3
!/4
C-C
lamP
r
aCk
& S
torage
B
ox
D
C-ClampBack(1)
#/4
ply.
-3
!/4
x12
!/2
E
Dowels(2)
C
Supports(2)
#/4
dia.
x5
!/2
F
BoxFront(1)
#/4
ply.-
4
!/2
x12
!/2
G
BoxBack(1)
#/4
ply.-
4
!/2
x12
!/2
H
BoxSides(2)
#/4
ply
.-4x4
!/2
I
BoxBottom(1)
#/4
ply.-
4
!/2
x12
C
lamP
C
addy
J
Sides(2)
#/4
ply.
-14x48
K
Bottom(1)
#/4
ply.
-14x25
!/2
L
Divider(1)
#/4
ply.
-25
!/2
x47
!/2
M
Base(1)
#/4
ply.
-22x28
2
3
Tall aux.
fence
a.
FRONT VIEW
Drill press
fence
Tall
aux.
fence
FIRST:
Lay out
slots on top piece
A
A
Slots
cut in
two
passes
2
#/8
"
Raise
saw
blade
to height
of hole
A
SECOND:
Drill
holes
2
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
4
C-Clamp Rack
a.
NOTE:
Drill dowel
holes at a 5° angle
CROSS
SE
CTION
To keep 4" C-clamps in order, I
made this small rack. It’s nothing
more than a pair of short
3
/
4
" dowels
attached to a plywood back.
If you take a look at Fig. 4a, you
can see that the holes for the dow-
els are drilled at a slight angle. This
keeps the clamps from sliding off the
front. For larger or smaller C-clamps,
just change the spacing between the
dowels. The completed rack is then
screwed to the wall.
12!/2"
4#/4"
Counter-
sunk screw
hole
2"
#/4"dia.
1"
3!/4"
1%/8"
5!/2"
2"
Dowel
hole at
5° angle
D
E
DOWEL
D
(
#/4"
dia.)
{
C-clamps hang neatly
on a rack made with
a plywood back and a
couple of dowels.
C-CLAMP BACK
5
a.
12!/2"
SIDE
SECTIO
N
VIEW
4!/2"
Storage Box
Once you start a glue-up, you can’t
really stop to hunt for some
accessory you forgot. That’s
why I like this simple storage
box. It gives me one conve-
nient place to keep bottles
of glue, clamp pads, band
clamps, brushes, and other odds
and ends that seem to “wander off”
just as I’m ready to start a glue-up.
Like the racks, the box is made
from
3
/
4
" plywood. And keeping with
the modular design of the storage
system, the box is the same length
as the racks. If you look at Fig. 5,
you can see one thing that’s a little
unusual about the box — the back
is
1
/
2
" taller than the front. As you
4!/2"
G
4"
!/2"
H
BOX
BACK
G
Counter-
sunk
screw hole
11"
4!/2"
I
BOX BOTTOM
H
F
BOX FRONT
4"
{
A storage box will hold
gluing accessories and
keep them close at hand
during assemblies.
NOTE:
All box
pieces are
H
plywood
#/4"
BOX
SIDE
can see in Fig. 5a, this allows the
mounting screws to be up higher
so they can be reached easily with a
screwdriver. (It’s a good idea to drill
the holes for these screws before
the box is glued up.)
Assembly of the storage box is
pretty straightforward. I just spread
glue on all four edges of the bottom
piece, then sandwiched it between
the sides before adding the front
and back pieces.
ALTERNATIVE MOUNTING OPTIONS
These small racks don’t take
much wall space. Even so,
the weight of the clamps will
play a big part in where and
how you mount the racks.
Pegboard will be suitable
for a short rack with small
clamps. But it may not be
strong enough to hold a rack
filled with long pipe clamps.
If you’re fastening the racks
to drywall, try to find one stud
to screw into. The other end
of the rack can be attached
with a drywall anchor.
Solid wood or plywood (like
on the caddy on page 4) will
provide the strongest mount-
ing surface for heavy racks.
Dry wall
anchor
L-hook
#8 x 1
Fh wood-
screw
!/2"
#8 x 1
Fh woodscrew
!/4"
a.
a.
a.
CROSS
SECTION
CROSS
SECTION
Peg
board
CROSS
SECTION
#8 x 1
Fh wood-
screw
!/2"
#8 x 1
Fh wood-
screw
!/4"
L- hook
Pegboard.
L-screws in the
edge of the top allow you to
hang a rack on pegboard.
Drywall.
Hollow wall hangers
will hold a rack, but drive at
least one screw into a stud.
Caddy.
To fasten racks to the
caddy, drill pilot and shank
holes and use woodscrews.
No. ???
Woodsmith
4
3
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
NOTE:
Cut " radius
on top corners of sides
#/4
Optional Clamp Caddy
While the clamp racks are designed
to be small enough to fit just about
any available wall space, you might
want to consider building this roll-
around caddy to hold them. It pro-
vides plenty of room to fasten clamp
racks and storage boxes.
Two clamp racks will fit between
the sides. As shown in the photos
below, more racks can be fastened
to the outside faces. And best of all,
the caddy is mounted on locking
swivel casters, so it’s easy to roll it
to wherever you need it.
The caddy can be made from a sin-
gle sheet of plywood (with enough
left over to make a few racks). The
pieces fit together with a series of
dadoes and rabbets.
CONSTRUCTION.
There are only five
pieces in the caddy. So the place to
start is by cutting the
sides (J), bot-
tom (K),
divider (L)
and
base (M)
to
size, as shown in Fig. 6.
Next, dadoes are cut in the sides
and bottom to fit the divider (Fig.
6a). Then as Fig. 6b shows, the side
pieces also receive a rabbet that
accepts the bottom panel.
Before assembling the caddy, I
rounded the corners of the base to
make it “ankle friendly” (Fig. 6c).
The top corners of the sides receive
the same treatment.
ASSEMbLY.
To assemble the caddy,
first glue the divider to the bottom
and then add the sides. A few screws
along the dadoes and rabbets help
reinforce the joints.
There are just a few things left. One
is to screw a locking swivel caster to
each corner of the base (Fig. 6d).
a.
6
TOP
VIEW
!/4"
NOTE:
Caddy sized
to hold two racks or
boxes side-by-side
25
!/2
"
#/4"
L
J
K
14"
#/4"
J
SIDE
2"
#8 x 1 "
Fh wood-
screw
!/4
b.
L
47
!/2
"
#/4"
FRONT
VIEW
!/4"
L
24"
DIVIDER
J
48"
#/4"
K
c.
NOTE:
Cut radius
before assembly
J
SIDE
NOTE:
All pieces
cut from
plywood
M
#/4"
#/4"
radius
2"
K
BOTTOM
#/8"
d.
Locking
swivel
caster
#10 x "
Ph screw
%/8
25
!/2
"
14"
!/2"
28"
M
22"
!/2"
BASE
#8 x 1
Fh wood-
screw
!/4"
NOTE:
Assemble sides,
divider and bottom, then
glue and screw to base
Then the caddy assembly is centered
on the base, glued, and screwed
down. Finally, you can attach the
racks and fill them with clamps.
W
cutting diagraM
#/4"- 48" x 96"Plywood
J
L
J
{
Take it for a Spin.
The four casters on this caddy make it
mobile, so you can wheel it over to an assembly and have
your clamps (and accessories) right at hand. Plus, the cast-
ers allow you to spin the caddy around easily, which means
quick access to the clamps on all four sides.
K
M
No. ???
Woodsmith
5
4
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
zanotowane.pl doc.pisz.pl pdf.pisz.pl charloteee.keep.pl
CLAMP
STORAGE
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co.
S
hop
p
rojeCt
C
lamp
S
torage
Have some scrap plywood and an empty bit of wall space? That’s all
you need to get your clamps organized.
T
here’s an old saying that a wood-
worker can never have too many
clamps. I know that over the
years I’ve collected quite a few. In fact,
finding space to put my ever-growing
collection was becoming an issue.
What I needed was a better way to
store and organize my clamps. And
the new “system” had to be easy to
build and add on to. That way, as I
got more clamps I could make a new
rack for them quickly.
SIMPLE DESIGN.
What I came up with
is a rack that can be made from four
small pieces of plywood and fits just
about anywhere. A series of these
racks can be customized to hold all
types of bar and pipe clamps. And as
you can see in the photos below, I
even made a couple of extra racks to
hold gluing supplies and C-clamps.
One thing all the racks have in
common is that they are designed
to screw to the wall. So you can fit
clamp storage wherever you have an
open bit of wall space.
ROLL-AROUND CADDY
. If you’re short of
wall space, don’t worr y. The racks
can also be attached to a handy roll-
around caddy, as you can see on
page 4. Even if you have plenty of
wall space, you may want to con-
sider building the caddy. It holds
all of your clamps in one place and
makes it easy to roll them to wher-
ever your project may be.
{
A storage box keeps glue and acces-
sories organized. Mounting it near
the clamps makes it handy.
{
C-clamps are held on this simple
rack. It can be custom built to fit
different sizes of clamps.
{
Pistol-grip clamps can be cinched
down on a rack, ready to grab and
be put to work.
1
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
a.
Countersunk
screw hole
Racks
The heart of this clamp storage sys-
tem is an L-shaped rack braced at
each end by a triangular support.
Each rack is the same size. The only
difference is the slots that are custom-
ized for different types of clamps.
All of the pieces are made from
3
⁄
4
" plywood (although hardwood
would work as well). In fact, I built
my racks from pieces of scrap ply-
wood that were too small for projects
but too big to throw out.
To keep things simple, I made each
rack 12
1
/
2
" long. That way they fit in
small bits of wall space as well as on
the optional roll-around caddy. But
they can be made any length you like
to accomodate your clamps.
CUT PIECES.
The first step was to cut
a
top (A), back (B),
and two
sup-
ports (C)
to size for each rack, like
you see in Fig. 1 at right. (I made the
supports by ripping a long 3
1
/
4
"-wide
blank, then making alternating 45°
cuts on the end.)
Before assembling the racks,
I took the time to drill a couple of
countersunk holes in each back piece
(Fig. 1a). These are used to screw the
completed rack to a wall.
SLOT LAYOUT.
The next step is to lay
out the slots for the clamps in each
top piece. The detail drawings in Fig.
1 show racks for the most common
types of clamps. Small bar clamps sit
fairly close together (Fig. 1b). I-beam
clamps need more room between
slots (Fig. 1c). And Fig. 1d shows
the spacing for pipe clamps. Note:
Racks for pistol-grip clamps don’t
need slots. Refer to the lower right
photo on the previous page.
1
BACK
Counter-
sunk screw
hole
1"
B
B
4"
12!/2"
2"
12!/2"
b.
3!/4"
TOP
VIEW
BAR CLAMPS
A
TOP
%/16"-dia.
hole
A
C
SUPPORT
3!/4"
4"
NOTE:
All pieces are
plywood
BAR
CLAMP
RACK
2#/8"
#/4"
3!/4"
SUPPORT
1#/4"
1" 1"
C
c.
d.
#/4" PIPE CLAMPS
I-BEAM CLAMPS
1
!/8"
-dia.
hole
A
A
!/2"-dia. hole
TOP
VIEW
TOP
VIEW
4"
1!/4"
4"
1&/8"
1&/8"
2#/8"
2!/2"
1#/4"
3"
1#/4"
3"
CUT SLOTS.
After the slots are laid
out, you can start cutting them. I
found the best way to do this was to
drill a hole at the top of each slot first,
like you see in Fig. 2.
After the holes are drilled, the
waste can be removed on the table
saw. As Fig. 3 shows, I attached an
auxiliary fence to my miter gauge to
support the workpiece and prevent
the waste piece from kicking back.
ASSEMbLY.
Once the slots are cut,
the rack can be glued up. The top is
clamped to the top edge of the back;
then the supports are added.
With my long clamps taken care
of, I turned my attention to my C-
clamps and accessories.
Materials
B
ar
& P
iPe
C
lamP
r
aCk
A
Top(1)
#/4
ply.
-4x12
!/2
B
Back(1)
#/4
ply.
-3
!/4
x12
!/2
#/4
ply.
-3
!/4
x3
!/4
C-C
lamP
r
aCk
& S
torage
B
ox
D
C-ClampBack(1)
#/4
ply.
-3
!/4
x12
!/2
E
Dowels(2)
C
Supports(2)
#/4
dia.
x5
!/2
F
BoxFront(1)
#/4
ply.-
4
!/2
x12
!/2
G
BoxBack(1)
#/4
ply.-
4
!/2
x12
!/2
H
BoxSides(2)
#/4
ply
.-4x4
!/2
I
BoxBottom(1)
#/4
ply.-
4
!/2
x12
C
lamP
C
addy
J
Sides(2)
#/4
ply.
-14x48
K
Bottom(1)
#/4
ply.
-14x25
!/2
L
Divider(1)
#/4
ply.
-25
!/2
x47
!/2
M
Base(1)
#/4
ply.
-22x28
2
3
Tall aux.
fence
a.
FRONT VIEW
Drill press
fence
Tall
aux.
fence
FIRST:
Lay out
slots on top piece
A
A
Slots
cut in
two
passes
2
#/8
"
Raise
saw
blade
to height
of hole
A
SECOND:
Drill
holes
2
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
4
C-Clamp Rack
a.
NOTE:
Drill dowel
holes at a 5° angle
CROSS
SE
CTION
To keep 4" C-clamps in order, I
made this small rack. It’s nothing
more than a pair of short
3
/
4
" dowels
attached to a plywood back.
If you take a look at Fig. 4a, you
can see that the holes for the dow-
els are drilled at a slight angle. This
keeps the clamps from sliding off the
front. For larger or smaller C-clamps,
just change the spacing between the
dowels. The completed rack is then
screwed to the wall.
12!/2"
4#/4"
Counter-
sunk screw
hole
2"
#/4"dia.
1"
3!/4"
1%/8"
5!/2"
2"
Dowel
hole at
5° angle
D
E
DOWEL
D
(
#/4"
dia.)
{
C-clamps hang neatly
on a rack made with
a plywood back and a
couple of dowels.
C-CLAMP BACK
5
a.
12!/2"
SIDE
SECTIO
N
VIEW
4!/2"
Storage Box
Once you start a glue-up, you can’t
really stop to hunt for some
accessory you forgot. That’s
why I like this simple storage
box. It gives me one conve-
nient place to keep bottles
of glue, clamp pads, band
clamps, brushes, and other odds
and ends that seem to “wander off”
just as I’m ready to start a glue-up.
Like the racks, the box is made
from
3
/
4
" plywood. And keeping with
the modular design of the storage
system, the box is the same length
as the racks. If you look at Fig. 5,
you can see one thing that’s a little
unusual about the box — the back
is
1
/
2
" taller than the front. As you
4!/2"
G
4"
!/2"
H
BOX
BACK
G
Counter-
sunk
screw hole
11"
4!/2"
I
BOX BOTTOM
H
F
BOX FRONT
4"
{
A storage box will hold
gluing accessories and
keep them close at hand
during assemblies.
NOTE:
All box
pieces are
H
plywood
#/4"
BOX
SIDE
can see in Fig. 5a, this allows the
mounting screws to be up higher
so they can be reached easily with a
screwdriver. (It’s a good idea to drill
the holes for these screws before
the box is glued up.)
Assembly of the storage box is
pretty straightforward. I just spread
glue on all four edges of the bottom
piece, then sandwiched it between
the sides before adding the front
and back pieces.
ALTERNATIVE MOUNTING OPTIONS
These small racks don’t take
much wall space. Even so,
the weight of the clamps will
play a big part in where and
how you mount the racks.
Pegboard will be suitable
for a short rack with small
clamps. But it may not be
strong enough to hold a rack
filled with long pipe clamps.
If you’re fastening the racks
to drywall, try to find one stud
to screw into. The other end
of the rack can be attached
with a drywall anchor.
Solid wood or plywood (like
on the caddy on page 4) will
provide the strongest mount-
ing surface for heavy racks.
Dry wall
anchor
L-hook
#8 x 1
Fh wood-
screw
!/2"
#8 x 1
Fh woodscrew
!/4"
a.
a.
a.
CROSS
SECTION
CROSS
SECTION
Peg
board
CROSS
SECTION
#8 x 1
Fh wood-
screw
!/2"
#8 x 1
Fh wood-
screw
!/4"
L- hook
Pegboard.
L-screws in the
edge of the top allow you to
hang a rack on pegboard.
Drywall.
Hollow wall hangers
will hold a rack, but drive at
least one screw into a stud.
Caddy.
To fasten racks to the
caddy, drill pilot and shank
holes and use woodscrews.
No. ???
Woodsmith
4
3
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
NOTE:
Cut " radius
on top corners of sides
#/4
Optional Clamp Caddy
While the clamp racks are designed
to be small enough to fit just about
any available wall space, you might
want to consider building this roll-
around caddy to hold them. It pro-
vides plenty of room to fasten clamp
racks and storage boxes.
Two clamp racks will fit between
the sides. As shown in the photos
below, more racks can be fastened
to the outside faces. And best of all,
the caddy is mounted on locking
swivel casters, so it’s easy to roll it
to wherever you need it.
The caddy can be made from a sin-
gle sheet of plywood (with enough
left over to make a few racks). The
pieces fit together with a series of
dadoes and rabbets.
CONSTRUCTION.
There are only five
pieces in the caddy. So the place to
start is by cutting the
sides (J), bot-
tom (K),
divider (L)
and
base (M)
to
size, as shown in Fig. 6.
Next, dadoes are cut in the sides
and bottom to fit the divider (Fig.
6a). Then as Fig. 6b shows, the side
pieces also receive a rabbet that
accepts the bottom panel.
Before assembling the caddy, I
rounded the corners of the base to
make it “ankle friendly” (Fig. 6c).
The top corners of the sides receive
the same treatment.
ASSEMbLY.
To assemble the caddy,
first glue the divider to the bottom
and then add the sides. A few screws
along the dadoes and rabbets help
reinforce the joints.
There are just a few things left. One
is to screw a locking swivel caster to
each corner of the base (Fig. 6d).
a.
6
TOP
VIEW
!/4"
NOTE:
Caddy sized
to hold two racks or
boxes side-by-side
25
!/2
"
#/4"
L
J
K
14"
#/4"
J
SIDE
2"
#8 x 1 "
Fh wood-
screw
!/4
b.
L
47
!/2
"
#/4"
FRONT
VIEW
!/4"
L
24"
DIVIDER
J
48"
#/4"
K
c.
NOTE:
Cut radius
before assembly
J
SIDE
NOTE:
All pieces
cut from
plywood
M
#/4"
#/4"
radius
2"
K
BOTTOM
#/8"
d.
Locking
swivel
caster
#10 x "
Ph screw
%/8
25
!/2
"
14"
!/2"
28"
M
22"
!/2"
BASE
#8 x 1
Fh wood-
screw
!/4"
NOTE:
Assemble sides,
divider and bottom, then
glue and screw to base
Then the caddy assembly is centered
on the base, glued, and screwed
down. Finally, you can attach the
racks and fill them with clamps.
W
cutting diagraM
#/4"- 48" x 96"Plywood
J
L
J
{
Take it for a Spin.
The four casters on this caddy make it
mobile, so you can wheel it over to an assembly and have
your clamps (and accessories) right at hand. Plus, the cast-
ers allow you to spin the caddy around easily, which means
quick access to the clamps on all four sides.
K
M
No. ???
Woodsmith
5
4
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2009 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
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